2015 Michel Delhommeau "Harmonie" Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Harmonie offers a very clear, elegant and pure bouquet of ripe pears with fresh citrus flavors. Full-flavored, juicy and full of minerals, this is a gorgeously pure and elegant but also sensual and stimulating Muscadet in perfect balance. The finish is pretty long, aromatic and structured, which is what makes this still primarily fruity wine highly attractive to be drunk young, although this Muscadet will gain even more complexity over the years.
Michel & Nathalie Delhommeau farm 28 hectares of vines planted on almost pure rock in this region. Dominating the estate is gabbro which is essentially rock formed from molten lava. Many of the vines are quite old, producing low yields and very complex bottlings. Michel vinifies only by soil type, separates tanks out by vine age, and keeps volumes quite low. Aside from producing great wine, this young couple represents the opposite of the jaded and often pretentious winemaker set one can easily find. Humble and quiet, they are turning out impressively complex bottlings of Muscadet that often smell more like great Chardonnay from Chablis than anything else. From a single parcel of old vines planted on gabbro soils, the Harmonie is a smack in the face with its sharp, stony minerality. But that component is matched and balanced with rich tropical notes of mango and pineapple. A very nice snap runs through the middle and the zingy sharp finish leaves your lips smacking for another sip.