2015 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru (Mommessin) (Pre-Arrival)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was tasted both as separate cuvées from individual parcels around the vineyard (always a stimulating and insightful exercise) and of course, as the final blend, assembled in the same proportion as eventually bottled. It has a classic bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of dried rose petals in a vase and a distant sea-spray scent that becomes more accentuated with time in the glass. There is a sense of restraint here, keeping lock and key on the precocity of the growing season. The palate is very well balanced with a superb line of razor-sharp acidity, palpable 'coolness' imparted by the assiduous early picking. It is equipped with fine tannin, imbued with natural poise and gathers more black fruit towards the finish that offers a subtle slate-like note. It is one of the best I have tasted from this ancient vineyard, so assured and regal, destined to last more than 30 years with ease. (NM)
There are eight lots here, and this is the likely definitive blend, which will be made final before bottling. Voluptuous red fruit nose displaying power, force and aromatic purity despite the new oak. Lovely attack, packed with fruit and a graceful acidity. Great clarity and precision, but it's no heavyweight, convincing by its intensity. There's 13.4% alcohol here but it's not apparent, and neither are the tannins. Harmonious and very long finish. Drinking Window 2019 - 2040
(an approximation of the final blend, including the young vines): Healthy dark red. Superb soil-driven nose combines raspberry, musky rocky minerality, roast coffee and subtle floral lift. Large-scaled but fresh and gripping; more juicy than chewy in texture, with its very concentrated yet delicate berry fruit complemented but not overshadowed by strong soil tones. Finishes with serious but suave tannins that arrive late and an exhilarating light touch. (Incidentally, I also tasted a few of this wine's components. My favorite was from old vines planted in the upper part of the Clos on white soil rich in soft marl and rocks. This sample displayed ineffable rose petal lift to its aromas of raspberry and bacon fat, and its utterly suave, seamless, perfumed palate reminded me a bit of a great Côte-Rôtie from the Côte Blonde. Another sample from very old vines planted in the bottom part of the Clos on a plate of limestone featuring very shallow topsoil combined terrific thrust and delicacy, a silky texture and a spherical quality that reminded me of Romanée-Conti. The wine's tannic touch was wonderfully refined. The young-vines component of Clos de Tart will contribute raspberry, spice and chocolate notes to the ultimate assemblage. While this sample seemed a bit facile--and not at the level of the other components--it will no doubt add an element of juiciness to the final blend.) (ST)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
Moderate wood frames very ripe aromas of plum, cassis, floral and ample spice and earth nuances. There is excellent richness to the opulent yet relatively refined big-bodied flavors that exhibit a subtle minerality on the powerful, mouth coating and driving finish that possesses outstanding complexity and persistence. There is a hint of warmth but overall this is quite well-balanced and the length is really quite remarkable. My sense is that while this will age effortlessly for decades, it should not be particularly difficult young.