2017 Müller-Catoir "MC" Riesling Feinherb Pfalz

SKU #1393235 90 points Vinous

 This is a terrific example of Riesling relishing what I like to call 'hidden sweetness.' The legally halbtrocken level of residual sugar present here not only beautifully supports the flavors of bright, luscious key lime, grapefruit and white peach, but also seems to set off the wine’s mouthwatering sense of salinity (a cleaner and more purely mineral salinity than that expressed in the corresponding legally trocken generic). Sage and basil lend pungent and cooling notes. A silken feel is in itself alluring while also offering a lovely contrast with the wine’s overall brightness and animatingly tingling acidity, and the lingering finish milks the salivary glands. If you play around with this wine at table, you’ll discover the full significance of 'hidden sweetness,' as it insinuates itself into culinary contexts where legally dry Rieslings fear to tread. (DS)  (3/2019)

K&L Notes

Muller-Catoir has been owned and managed by the same family since 1744. Importer Terry Theise describes this particular wine as perfect. "Perfect Riesling, perfect food-wine, perfectly clear and polished and tasty and interesting. Lemon flavor without lemon tartness; like a meyer, part-way to a peach. I’ve had a ton of wines that smelled like this and they all cost 2X or 3X more. The “green” umami is almost heart-rending. God what a beauty!"


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Price: $19.99

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Additional Information:

Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.
Sub-Region:

Pfalz