2017 Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg "Quarzit" Riesling

SKU #1441433 Vinous

 This featured a higher percentage of spontaneous fermentation than did the corresponding “Porphyr” bottling, and that shows in some residual aromatic yeastiness and smokiness that slightly clouds scents of mango and Persian melon. The mouth feel is surprisingly soft, with a luscious emphasis on sheer fruitiness; the finish caressingly-sustained and a bit superficially sweet. Apropos sweetness, residual sugar in this cuvée, although it has been steadily diminishing, is still at a level (here 35 grams) where the wine works best under conditions of genuine tension with prominent acidity, and in the presence of salinity and crystalline minerality of the sort one anticipates (with good reason) under the rubric “quartzite.” Unfortunately (and rather surprisingly) those conditions seem not to have been met in 2017. Perhaps not irrelevant to quality is the fact that this cuvée has grown enormously in volume in recent years and is in consequence now more diversely-sourced than it was until a few years ago. (DS)  (4/2019)

Wine Spectator

 Aromatic, showing aromas of elderflower and jasmine that continue on the palate, followed by passion fruit and saffron details. A lovely sipper, with a pleasant mouthfeel. Drink now. (AZ, Web Only-2019)


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Price: $17.99

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Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.
Sub-Region:

Nahe

Alcohol Content (%): 9.5